Last week I took some time on Monday to cut a little off of the front springs like I mentioned. Only cut 1/4 of a coil off because the car that the springs came out of sat a little high in the front. Any Fox Mustang owner can empathize as the rear springs typically sag on these cars after 10 or more years of use. If not less than that if the car has been rode hard and put up wet.
Another problem with the way the springs were sitting was the upper spring isolator. The spring wasn't sitting in them very well. So combine the bottom pigtail not being in the slot of the A arm, the spring being just a little too tall overall, and the upper spring isolator issue and the car sat really high in the front. It sits low and level now after a good 3 hour round trip drive. It's been raining every day after work here so I haven't been able to grab a pic.
Seems like all I've done is work on brakes these last three months. Everything is together now. I've taken apart every fitting or connection on this mustangs brake system. Even replaced the booster. I had new hard lines fabricated for the rear axle and they work but I'm not satisfied with the way they turned out once installed. I'd really like to run stainless braided lines in the rear and I'm doing research now to see what parts are needed to accomplish this. I'll get another rear axle to build up because I want the 31 spline Auburn differential Saleen offered in the catalog and that means 31 spline axles to upgrade the factory ones. No reason to modify the axle in the car when i can grab another housing and build it up out of the car and then after the car is painted the current axle can come out, swap some brakes over and throw the built axle in the car. Just makes sense to do it that way.
This is the setup as it sits now. The rear calipers have been coated in ceramic paint to keep them from rusting. This car will get driven so taking some measures like this are in my plans.
You can see the new brake lines in the background. They fit but took quite a bit of manipulation, to put it lightly, to get them to attach to the caliper soft lines.
The rear springs are in and all that is left to set the car back down on the ground is to bleed the whole system.
The fender lips are now rolled. I thought I took a pic but I can't find it. The camera went haywire and I think the file was corrupt. Rented the Eastwood Fender Roller tool. I've used that before and it makes that job a piece of cake. I know of guys using baseball bats and other things but the Eastwood tool allows you to go slow enough so that you don't hurt the paint. Paint wasn't a huge concern of mine since the car will be painted in the future. I recommend anyone rolling the fenders if you plan to have your car painted. Whether you need it for wheel clearance or not because if you're like me you'll change your brake setup and wheels only to find out after you painted the car you should have rolled the fender lips. Ask me how I know... My old 88 GT comes to mind.
A little blog about the build process of a car that almost got away.